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by: BillMurphy
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Word Count: 491

You've finally decided that you want to build your own model railway and the train table that it will need to sit on. Often the first choice for a layout will be a table top or a sheet of plywood. Although this may seem the easiest way, it definitely has its restrictions.

The biggest concern is that everything has to be on top and nothing can be below ground level. This is when most modelers see the benefits of building a table tailor made just for any scenery or landscape they might choose.

You need to start by planning the size, weight and design of your layout. If one section has more scenery, it will need more support. An L-girder support system is the choice for model layouts. It can give you all the strength needed as well as being very adaptable.

L-girder bench work is very strong, and still about as inexpensive as you can get. It's a very functional structure, and is easily put together. It is a platform consisting of girders, cross braces and joists, all working together to do the job. Most of the time the joists are about 18 inches apart, but they do not need to be equally spaced.

Be careful in choosing the lumber for the table top as well as for the support system. You will need a flat piece for your roadbed to avoid any problems but take care in choosing the support pieces as well. Cheaper grades of lumber may eventually warp and that could spell disaster for your project.

If your layout is larger that 4 x 8 you should still keep the pieces to that size to make them easier to transport in case you want to move your layout. Use wood screws from underneath to assemble the bench work cross members as well as the support risers.

By doing this you will spare the scenery if you happen to loose a screw. Try not to split the wood by using screws that are too large or by placing them in the wrong spots.

Choose any spots carefully that you want to cut for scenery or access. Opinions vary as to whether you should saw holes in the table top before or after the track is placed.

Personally, I think it's better to do so before the track is added so that the vibration from sawing doesn't loosen the track or ballast and ruin the smooth run of your operation. This is just my opinion though.

Most tabletop layouts are at about 48 to 55 inches high,. Obviously, this is something you can control, and if you've bolted the main support legs in place, (instead of screws or nails) you can even change it at the drop of a wrench! You'll want to try and make it so that even the tops of the highest hills and grades are visible without a step-stool.

Take the time needed in planning your special train table. It will be well worth it.

About the Author

Looking for information about model trains such as why dcc vs analog control is best? Learn more about getting your model railroad layout running the way you want on The Model Railroader website

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